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Labortests von Standkarabinern PDF Drucken

Auf planetmountain  findet ihr einen interessanten Artikel über Labortests von "Bauhaus"  Standkarabinern  (also solche die in Heimwerker und Eisenwarengeschäfte verkauft werden ) welche bei uns in nicht sanierten Routen auch noch verwendet werden.  


The factual evidence can be summed up as follows:
- Every "hardware" carabiner sucks, to say the least, whether they are new, old, regardless of their shape, type, width and where they were bought in Italy. All, apart from one, open on average at circa 1200 daN (kg).
- Every "climbing" carabiner, even the oldest, most used and worn, is better than the best new "hardware" carabiner. And even if really worn, they fail close to the stated breaking strength; this is almost twice as much as the average "hardware" carabiner.

- Often the abseil carabiner on a single pitch sport climb (which therefore becomes the only anchor) is far and away the worst carabiner in a climber's gear kit. Often even failing, with a closed gate, at loads which are less than a "good" climbing carabiner with an open gate.


Having said that, when top-roping it is best to add your own carabiner.

It is important to note that "hardware" carabiners are the worst carabiners a climber / alpinist can clip to his or her harness.  

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